After our journey to Chania and Rethymno, it was Heraklion's turn. Crete is inexhaustible and never stops revealing its endless beauties in every corner. So, the prefecture of Heraklion, which is also the largest on the island, had a lot to give us and teach us. After all, what other place has it to offer you? Especially when it comes to a region where civilization has been triumphing for 3000 years! We were full of impatience. We would tour the palace of the legendary King Minos, Phaistos with its famous discus, we would refresh the myths with which we grew up as children, the Minotaur, Theseus and Ariadne and… we would also surf!
Arriving in the prefecture of Heraklion, you realize that here the scenery changes compared to the rest of the island… The large mountain ranges that we encountered in the prefectures of Chania and Rethymno give way to a fertile plain with crops and small hills. However, in the southeast of the prefecture, a surprise awaited us, which we will tell you about below. What does not change, of course, is the Cretan hospitality and the willingness of the people to give you their best.
Where to stay?
Because we like to stay in places with historical significance, here we also recommend two listed monuments in the city center, without this meaning that there are not other very good options. The first is the GDM Megaron, a 1920 neoclassical building in front of the old port, and the second one in Hotel Veneziano , a listed building that combines Venetian and Ottoman architecture. Both constitute a “mental” journey into the modern history of Heraklion.
What to see
– Heraklion
The city is by no means as picturesque as Chania or Rethymno. However, this does not mean that it does not have beautiful corners and sights that deserve your attention. You will start your walk from the old Venetian port with the young people (repair area for Venetian ships, the Koule (the Venetian fortress that has been restored and is open to the public, providing information about the history of the area), and the Venetian church of St. Peter of the Dominicans. Walk along the street 25of August (or Planis Street) which is a picturesque pedestrian street with some of the most beautiful neoclassical buildings, the St. Mark's Basilica, the Loggia, his temple Saint Titus and the Morosini Fountain (Lions Square). You won't want to miss visiting the impressive Archaeological Museum of Heraklion which is also one of the most important in the country, while particularly noteworthy is the Natural History Museum of the University of Crete especially if you have children. Also, to get an idea of the huge fortification that Heraklion had during the Venetian rule, we suggest you take a drive along the walls starting from the street Archbishop Makarios and continuing on Plastira Avenue. In addition to the entrance gates to the bastion Martinego, you will encounter the tomb of the unsurpassed Cretan writings by Nikos Kazantzakor.
– Minoan Palace of Knossos
It is located a short distance from Heraklion and is one of the most important archaeological sites in the Mediterranean. The palace is fascinating and impressive with its imposing volume and the floors it had in antiquity. Myths such as King Minos, the Labyrinth with the Minotaur, Icarus and Daedalus, the abduction of Europa are associated with this place, arousing awe in the visitor! The Minoan civilization shone here.
Tip: There are no trees in the area and in the summer the temperatures are very high. As this is the most visited archaeological site on the island, the queues are often long. We recommend that you go early in the morning or late in the afternoon, always bringing a hat and water with you (opening hours 08:00 – 20:00). There is also a combined ticket with the Archaeological Museum of Heraklion.
– Up Archanes
Just 7 kilometers after Knossos lies Epano Archanes. It is a colorful traditional village where it is worth “getting lost” in its picturesque alleys and resting in an old cafe. As you walk, you will come across small museums with historical and folklore elements of the area and you will encounter the well-known Cretan hospitality of the residents of the area.
– Cretanaquarium – Thalassocosmos
At a distance of 20 minutes from Heraklion in the Gournes area is the largest aquarium in Greece and one of the largest in Europe! It hosts over 2000 marine species and fascinates young and old, while raising awareness among visitors about the protection of the sea and marine life.
– Phaistos
The Minoan Palace of Phaistos is located in a strategic position on a hill overlooking Psiloritis, the Asterousia Mountains and the Libyan Sea. Phaistos was the second most important city in Crete after Knossos, which is evident both from the findings and from the size of the palace, which reached 9,000 square meters. It was here that the famous Phaistos disc was found after excavations, which has not yet been deciphered!
– Matala
A short distance from Phaistos is the famous Matala beach, a place where hippies lived in the 60s and 70s. Bob Dylan, Joan Baez, Joni Mitchell (who also wrote a song about Matala) and others spent their nights here gazing at the Cretan sky. The history of the area goes back many centuries, of course, when the rocks were carved by the Romans and used as a burial ground, while it is believed that Menelaus' ships were wrecked in Matala on their way back from Troy. The only thing that is certain is that you will enjoy diving in the crystal clear waters and you will feel a little of the carefreeness of the era of the "flower children"!
– Agiofarango
This is one of the most impressive beaches in the prefecture of Heraklion, named after the hermits who chose the area to isolate themselves. To get there, you can either take the boat from Matala, Kokkino Pyrgos, Kali Limenes, or walk about a quarter of a mile from the nearest parking lot, first crossing 15 kilometers of dirt road by car, then the historic monastery of Panagia Hodigitria. The rocks are impressive, you will see caves everywhere, while on the eastern side of the beach there is a platform with brackish water that requires great care to approach.
– Komos
Most people choose the nearby beach of Kokkinos Pyrgos. But Komos won us over. The colors at sunset are magical as you watch the sun set behind the rocky islets of Paximadia. The antiquities just above the beach indicate the existence of an ancient port, while ruins of public buildings, an olive press, shipyards, a sanctuary, etc. have been found there. The beach is a nesting site for the loggerhead turtle Caretta caretta.
– Asterousia Mountains
The surprise area we talked about at the beginning of the article! If you are a person who likes adventure and primitive landscapes, here you will find your master! The Asterousia mountain range is the southernmost in Europe and although it is not characterized by high altitude, the steep terrain and numerous gorges make the area inaccessible but still virgin to tourism. There are many who say that the most impressive beaches of Crete are located here! The best thing to do to see them is to drive to the settlement of Tsoutsouras and take the boat (after making arrangements first) that takes you to the beaches of Aspes (Black Beach), Kaminaki (White Beach), Agios Nikitas, Skiadaki, Voidomatis, etc. The landscape is eerie, almost lunar! Your eyes will see a primitive and at the same time impressive sight. It's hard to get here, but it's hard to forget...
Food – entertainment
We have talked about what you will try in Crete in our previous article. Food on the island is a sacred affair and Heraklion is not short of flavors and delicacies... Without a doubt, our favorite hangout is Fish! There are no words to describe the unique experience of dining there, tasting authentic flavors that take you back to the Minoan era! The Kitchen is an imaginative steak house that has nothing to envy those in New York! For fresh seafood, you will go to Hippocampus, an excellent fish tavern near the Venetian harbor. The Traditional is an old-fashioned tavern that takes you back to another era, with delicious food and its courtyard being a small oasis in the summer heat. In the heart of Heraklion, the Kymata sushi bar marries Japanese and Mediterranean cuisine in the most creative way. Also, in the Kokkini Hani area, Mykonos won us over with its attentive food and view of the Cretan Sea! For brunch, you should go to Mare to gaze at the sea and fill yourself with energy for the rest of the day, while you will try the best cocktails at Bitters and in his "magical" courtyard Halavrou OpenBar.
Useful tip:
– Surfing & SUP at Arina beach. The closest large sandy beach in Heraklion is Arina. There you can learn from the schools that operate to surf carefree and safely! Depending on the conditions and the weather, they find the best spots to enjoy the beauties of the sea.
– If you like hiking and wooded landscapes, the forest and the canyon Rouva is a must! There you will find many well-made trails, rich flora and fauna and the tiny lake of Zarou.
– The Peninsula and the Malia in the northern part of the prefecture of Heraklion is one of the most touristic places in Crete and is particularly popular with foreigners for its nightlife and wild entertainment. We are not moved by such places, so we do not recommend them.
– If you are still looking for some good beaches in the northern part of the prefecture of Heraklion, we have the following to recommend to you: Ports Hersonissos and the Bridge, while in the area of Agia Pelagia we liked the beach Prisons.
– Nirima items. In the central market of Heraklion (1866 street) there is a very special jewelry workshop. You will find alternative custom made creations, with a different minimal and fresh look!
