“It's like you've made a magic trick on me, sweet French-Syrian.” M. Vamvakaris
Okay, have you been to all the Cyclades and not visited their capital? Are you "fed up" with the white of the houses and the blue of the windows, the wild and barren of the Aegean landscape and do you need something different but close to Attica? Syros is the answer!
As soon as you set foot in Ermoupolis, what you see is definitely something special! The administrative center of the Cyclades exudes a grandeur of older times with a cosmopolitan air, a legacy of the economic boom of the past. The city is characterized as a living museum thanks to the magnificent public buildings, the colorful neoclassical mansions, the impressive churches and the Venetian architecture. All of this creates a retro atmosphere that wins you over from the first minute!
This urban wonder was grafted over the centuries by colonists who arrived from the east and west, and developed a culture open to foreigners, something you will find in every Syrian you meet. It is no coincidence that Syros is considered the cultural hub of the Cyclades and it is unlikely that you will not encounter a festival, even if you only visit the island for a few days.
Syros, however, is not only Ermoupolis! It is the beautiful beaches, the villas of Dallagratsia and Poseidonia, the medieval Upper Syros, the rich gastronomy, the events, the people! So come with us and let us guide you around this unique island that you will not find anywhere else in the Cyclades!
Where to stay?
Undoubtedly in Ermoupolis! The picturesque settlements and fishing villages of the island may have everything you need for your vacation, but the capital is sparkling morning and evening and invites you to walk from one end to the other, admiring everything around you! Don't worry if you don't live in the center. Mini buses take you from one side of the city to the other for free! We will recommend an excellent choice, the hospitable Aeolia Boutique Studios, which is located opposite the mini bus stop, so you don't have to use your car in the city. To get to the beaches and other areas of the island, you will need a car or take the KTEL bus.
What to see in Ermoupolis
The city, named by its inhabitants in 1826 in honor of the ancient god of commerce, Hermes, flourished due to trade, textiles, and shipbuilding, becoming the largest transit center in the Aegean. This economic prosperity left behind architectural masterpieces that cannot be missed:
Miaouli Square
In the city center you will find the marble-paved Miaouli Square, which will mentally transport you to the 19th century.the century. It is the heart of the political, social and cultural life of Syros and is surrounded by jewel-like buildings, such as the Municipal Library, the Historical Archive of the Cyclades and other neoclassical buildings. At night it is bustling with life!
Town hall
Dominating Miaouli Square is Ernest Ziller's masterpiece, which looks more like a palace than a public building! It was built in 1876 and today houses municipal services, the courts, the mortgage registry and the archaeological museum. You will enter to see the conference room, Princess Sissi's carriage and the reception hall.
Apollo Theater
From the outside it may not look very impressive, but once you step inside you will be impressed! It is the creation of the Italian architect Pietro Szabo, who was inspired by the Scala in Milan. It was completed in 1864 and bears witness to the great cultural flourishing of Ermoupolis at that time. You can visit it for a small fee, but if you have time, it is worth seeing a performance there!
Megara
Nearby are two remarkable buildings that you shouldn't miss. The Velissaropoulos Mansion (which houses the Cyclades Labor Center) and the Cyclades Chamber of Commerce. Ask to go inside to get a fuller picture of how the great merchants of Syros lived in the late 19th century.
Saint Nicholas the Rich
In front of you now stands an architectural masterpiece! Saint Nicholas the Rich (or of the rich). He is the patron saint of the island and his construction in 1848 was financed by donations from benefactors and Syrian shipowners. Its interior is unique with the marble iconostasis being a true work of art!
Steamboats
You are now in the aristocratic district of the city! This is where industrialists and shipowners of Syros lived, creating beautiful neoclassical buildings, captain's houses and luxurious mansions. After exploring its picturesque narrow streets, you can take a dip in the famous Asteria beach, from a platform built there for this purpose.
Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
In the opposite direction, pass by the second oldest church on the island (1824). There you will find the icon of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary from 1562, painted by Domenikos Theotokopoulos, also known as El Greco.
Continuing, admire the buildings of the National Bank and the Tax Office of Syros to envy and compare with the corresponding ones you have in your city.
Industrial Museum
It is a small but very remarkable museum with collections of equipment and machinery from the “golden age” of Syros, when shipbuilding, textile manufacturing, crafts, etc. flourished on the island. Among the surprise exhibits is the legendary Enfield 8000, the first electric car manufactured in Greece.
Textile Museum
A hidden gem!! In the former Zisimatos textile factory, which had been operating there since 1914, a sudden event in 1986 led to the closure of the business. All the mechanical equipment was left intact and was brought back to life by the passion of some people on the island. We really have no words to describe the awesome experience we had visiting this museum!! The atmosphere, the space…. was definitely something we have never experienced before! We wondered if what we were seeing was a guided tour or a theatrical performance in a sensual space, which took you mentally on a journey to the past of Ermoupolis.
Tip: To visit the venue, you must first book your tickets and choose a day and time through the website. Hermoupolis Heritage, where there is all the information as well as the other experiences offered. Don't miss it if you find yourself in Ermoupolis! You won't find anything like it anywhere else!
Ano Syros
If you think that Ano Syros is no different from Ermoupolis, you are wrong! The fortress-city that was created in the Middle Ages to protect the inhabitants from pirate raids, has a mysterious charm and a proverbial sense of peace! You will go by bus or leave your car in the Municipality's parking lots, as its winding picturesque streets can barely fit two people!
To enter the settlement, you will pass through Door (in the past there was a heavy wooden door that was closed at night) and you will climb to the top where the Catholic church is located. San George (with the oldest church organ in Greece). The view from its courtyard is indescribable! Below is the Agios Nikolaos of the Poor, but also the marble catholicon Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel.
The central artery of the settlement is called “Piazza" and there you will find stylish clothing and souvenir shops, ice cream parlors, boutique accommodations, taverns and bars with views as far as the eye can see!
In Ano Syros you will also feel like you are in the footsteps of the "patriarch" of rebetiko, Markos Vamvakaris. Some verses written on the walls and shutters, an old gramophone playing in the background, testify that the memory of the famous composer is kept alive here. If you wish to learn more, there is also a small museum with his personal belongings, photographs and a documentary about his life.
Beaches
Don't think that because not many people talk about them, the beaches of Syros are indifferent. Quite the opposite! Most of them are sandy, easily accessible, ideal for families and with something that many will appreciate: free straw umbrellas for vacationers! There aren't enough for everyone, of course, but if you don't go during high season, you will still find one available. We present them to you in order of our preference:
- Dolphin. (you will sit on the far right) A beach that was once a deserted place with nudists, is in our opinion the best on the island. It consists of two parts. Its northern side, which is sandy and has a beach bar and restaurant, and its southern side, which is quieter, with pebbles. Access via a passable dirt road for 2-3 km.
- Agathospes. Wonderful beach with crystal clear waters. Sit away from the beach bar because it plays loud music for hours.
- Weights. Windless with fine sand, ideal for families.
- County. Quiet beach with easy access.
- StarsThe closest dive to Ermoupolis, ideal if one day you don't want to travel.
- Lotus. Quiet beach next to Kini. Avoid it when there is a strong north wind. (Leave the car up and walk a bit to find it because it is a dead end)
Nice beaches, but definitely crowded and difficult to park. Galissas (sat far right) and the Kini (which has a wonderful sunset). Other beaches sheltered from the wind to the north are Megas Gyalos (it has a rock in front but you will have to ask the guys at the beach bar for a sandy spot where you can enter) and the Palm.
The real treasure of the island, however, are the northwestern beaches which are only accessible by boat: Barbarousa, Aetos, Lia, Megas Lakos, Marmari, Gria cave, Letters (next to the archaeological site of the same name). We saw them in photos and the locals also talked about them, but unfortunately there was a north wind on the days we were there and we didn't go. To visit them, you will find information in Kini or here and hereIt's worth a try if the weather cooperates.
Food – Drink
An island with a rich history and a unique cultural heritage could not fail to have a special gastronomic tradition. Loukoumia, halva pies, pastelarias, local cheeses (San Michali, tyrovolia, sweet gruyere), louza and local sausages are some of the things you should try. Also, the fact that it is a large island in terms of population, comes with many options for all budgets. We tried and recommend the following:
In Ermoupoli
– You will find cooked food at Kastri (Syrian Women's Agrotourism Cooperative) and in Cooking"You're going for coffee."In the Steamboats", on the steps behind the sanctuary of St. Nicholas. Don't miss it Sky, on the beach in Vaporia. We recommend cocktails there in the evening because it is quite hot in the morning. Unless you go for a swim! For coffee and brunch it is worth Armadillo (in a beautiful photogenic alley) and the Epta Syros in an amazing building. The Elliniko Bistro, in the arches of Miaouli Square, it is suitable for coffee, breakfast snacks and ouzo. You will taste souvlaki, burgers, etc. at Street Food Stories, while for ice cream you will go to DJANGO Gelato .
In Ano Syros
Everyone will talk to you about it. Apanohoritissa, a gourmet tavern with a nice view, but it will be difficult to find a seat. In Brazilian, a balcony above Ermoupolis, you will go for pizza (pinsa), sweets and cocktails, while at Syrian coffee shop With a beautiful view, you will drink Turkish delight cocktails and taste excellent sweets!
Food in the villages
In the True Mitsos and the Empathy have a nice view and reasonable prices, at Kini in front of the sea you will taste seafood at Two Cicadas in the Armirikia, while in Sa Michalis in Pano Meria in Paved You will enjoy delicious flavors with a view of the best sunset on the island (don't go when there is a very strong north wind).
Closing
In conclusion, we would say that Syros is a queen in all its glory! An island for everyone that is different from the rest of the Cyclades. The diverse culture of its inhabitants, the religious diversity and the cosmopolitan aura are ingredients that you do not easily find elsewhere but also those that make this place so special! What we can tell you with certainty is that here you will have a relaxing vacation enjoying the rich cultural product in which the island has invested. Apart from the fact that you will definitely want to come back, you will have thoughts like: Should I move here?
